Monthly Archives: July 2016

Rosehip oil – a closer look

Following on from my rosehip oil (RHO) review post, here I have a short article based on scientific research on the comparison between rosa canina (RC) and rosa eglanteria/mosqueta/rubiginosa (RR).

170px-Illustration_Rosa_canina1

Rosa Canina

RR Wikimedia

Rosa Rubiginosa

 

Most RHO brands out there uses RC. Below I have listed most known brands using RC or RR. These brands include those who have pure RHO (100% RHO) and RHO+ (plus other oils and ingredients) products.

Brands using Rosa Canina
Essano
CROP
Natio
Trilogy
Swisse
Rosehip Plus
MooGoo
Natural Instinct
People for Plants
A’kin
Modelco
In Essence
Oil Garden Aromatherapy

Brands using Rosa Rubiginosa
She
Sukin
Kosmea
Kora Organics
Thursday Plantation

In terms of pricing, usually RC is cheaper than RR. It is also much more common.

The reason why I started this mini research was the difference I felt when using Kosmea, which uses RR instead of RC. Upon googling the term ‘RC vs RR’, I stumbled upon these useful blog posts:
http://pixiedw.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/some-bits-and-pieces-of-rosehip-oil.html
http://www.thingsilove.com.au/2010/08/review-organic-rosehip-oil.html

I then proceeded to look for scientific research articles to back this hypothesis. Here are some that I have found to be informative. I have tried to find open access articles so everyone is able to read them too.

Note – Flavonoids are basically antioxidants. Here’s a longer, more scientific explanation: “They act in plants as antioxidants, antimicrobials, photoreceptors, visual attractors, feeding repellants, and for light screening. Many studies have suggested that flavonoids exhibit biological activities, including antiallergenic, antiviral, antiinflammatory, and vasodilating actions. However, most interest has been devoted to the antioxidant activity of flavonoids, which is due to their ability to reduce free radical formation and to scavenge free radicals.” (Pietta, 2000)

To sum the articles up, here’s the difference between RC and RR:

From Adamczak, Buchwald, Zielinski and Mielcarek, 2012:

Upon comparing 75 samples representing 11 species –

RC
Mean Vit C content – 0.51 g/100 g DM (dry matter)
Mean Citric acid content – 3.4 g/100 g DM (my reading of the graph)
Mean Flavonoid content – 41 mg/100 g DM

RR
Mean Vit C content – 1.18 g/100 g DM (my reading of the graph)
Mean Citric acid content – 3.1 g/100 g DM(my reading of the graph)
Mean Flavonoid content – 72 mg/100 g DM

“…flavonoids were highest in R. rubiginosa (72 mg/100 g DM)”
“…average flavonoid content in R. canina hips (41 mg/100 g DM) was nearly half that of R. rubiginosa hips (72 mg/100 g DM).”
“The average amount of vitamin C in R. canina hips (0.51 g/100 g DM) was nearly a third that of R. dumalis hips (1.44 g/100 g DM).”
“Rosa villosa is the richest source of vitamin C, while R. canina usually shows low content of it (Krzaczek et al., 1970; Gao et al., 2000); our results support that.”

From Roman, Stanila and Stanila, 2013:

“Yoo et al. reported a higher content in flavonoids (400 mg QE/100 g fresh fruit) but in Rosa rubiginosa, data which is in concordance with Adamczak et al. who obtained the highest concentration in flavonoids for Rosa rubiginosa among other 11 species of Rosa L.”

Concluding thoughts

Based on my quick research, it seems that RR’s content is more beneficial when compared to RC. This is purely comparing the concentration of the components (flavonoids, citric acid and vitamin C). As a consumer – I’m now more aware of what is in my RHO and of the options available in the market. I’m definitely trying Thursday Plantation and Sukin next, to see if the quality of their RHO is comparable to Kosmea.

After reading more blog posts, reviews and various articles on RHO (sorry can’t remember all the individual sources), I have also learnt that you should always buy unrefined, non-heat treated/cold-pressed RHO. You can see the difference in the colour. Heat treated RHO will be paler in colour and does not smell as strong. Kosmea’s RHO is reddish and smells quite strong, when compared to other RHO brands.

 

References

Adamczak, A., Buchwald, W., Zielinski, J., & Mielcarek, S. (2012). Flavonoid and Organic Acid Content in Rose Hips (Rosa L., Sect. Caninae Dc. Em. Christ.). Acta Biologica Cracoviensia, 54(1), 105.

Pietta, P. G. (2000). Flavonoids as antioxidants. J Nat Prod, 63(7), 1035-1042.

Roman, I, Stanila, A., & Stanila, S. (2013). Bioactive compounds and antioxidant activity of Rosa canina L. biotypes from spontaneous flora of Transylvania. Chemistry Central Journal, 7, 73.

 

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Rosehip Oil | Review

I am a self-confessed oil hipster. I used oil before it was mainstream. Someone put it on a t-shirt!

 

I started using oils and the oil cleansing method in 2005 (early enough, right?). The first brand I used was Kosmea. At the time, no other brands offering RHO was widely available. I oil cleansed with no-brand castor and sweet almond oil from the health shop. Compared to the plethora of choices that Australian consumers now have, back then the choices were minimal.

 

Somehow, I stopped using RHO and did not oil cleanse as regularly as I explored other products and brands. Looking back, using products from the Kosmea range and not chemically exfoliating was not beneficial for my oilier, younger skin; which is perhaps why I did not see any benefits. My bank account breathed a sigh of relief as Kosmea products weren’t exactly the cheapest on the market, even now!

 

Fast forward a couple of years and my skin is now more dehydrated. I started using RHO again due to the increased exposure and availability of newer brands. Literally almost every single naturalist brand out there has a RHO. Swisse, Sukin, A’Kin, Trilogy… There are even brands which are built on RHO – Essano and Rosehip Plus. So in this post, I will go through three brands that I have tried so far: Trilogy, Swisse and Kosmea.

 

Trilogy

 

 trilogy

 

Rating: 3/5

 

Arguably the most well known and widely available RHO brand in the Australian market right now. I have used more than 5 bottles in the last 2-3 years with no profound effects on my skin. It moisturises decently, absorbs decently and is non-offensive. Scent is OK – then again I’m not fussy with product scents. The oil is gold-coloured and texture is light.

 

I guess it just became a staple of my skincare routine that I didn’t really question its effectiveness anymore. I still have frequent dry patches on my face. It’s also frequently discounted, which is a great incentive to buy.

 

I didn’t see or feel any major differences between the antioxidant and normal versions. The antioxidant version contains Rosapene™. I did use the Rosapene night cream and found the cream to have a good plumping and moisturising effect on my skin.

 

I would probably use this for mixing with body creams in the future, but then again I can buy from cheaper brands for that purpose. Honestly, going back to Kosmea has made Trilogy’s RHO redundant. I have 1.5 bottles of this left and I’ve been using it on my neck, chest and back of hands. I actually WANT to like Trilogy more than Kosmea, due to the more affordable price and wider availability.

 

Buying tip
Wait for Priceline or Chemist Warehouse sale

 

Ingredients
Normal version
Rosa Canina (rosehip) seed oil

 

Antioxidant version
Rosa Canina (rosehip) seed oil, Solanum lycopersicum (tomato) seed oil (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil (and) helianthus annuus seed oil (and) tocopherol, Lycopene, Euterpe Oleracea fruit oil (and) Tocopherol, Avena sativa kernel extract (all of these ingredients are trademarked as Rosapene by Trilogy).

 

Swisse

 

Rosehip

 

Rating: 2/5

 

Bought this as it was on sale (those sales always get me). I tried using it on my face and it was just too heavy and oily. It just sat on top of my skin. The texture and smell are different from other RHOs that I’ve tested. It’s light golden in colour and thicker than other RHOs in the market. The scent is nice and citrusy, not the typical RHO smell.

 

After a few uses, I relegated this to neck/chest/back of hands duty and have not repurchased. I wonder if the addition of other oils contributes to the different texture and feel of this oil? Maybe OK for body oil but as I said above, there are other cheaper RHOs or body oils for that purpose.

 

Buying tip
Wait for Coles/Woolies half price sale or Priceline or Chemist Warehouse sale.

 

Ingredients
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (94.25%)
Certified Organic Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (5%)
Tocopherol (Vitamin E derived from Soy and Sunflower)
Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil
Litsea Cubeba Fruit (May Chang) Oil
Cymbopogon Martini (Palma Rosa) Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower (Rose Geranium) Oil.

 

Kosmea

 

Kosmea-Certified-Organic-Rose-Hip-Oil

 

Rating: 5/5

 

I bought this a few months ago on a whim and have not looked back since. I remembered the bright orange colour and heavier texture of the oil and the unique aroma which made this product different from the rest of the RHOs in the market.

 

What a great decision! One week later, after using it religiously after my toner every night, I realised how smooth and moisturised my skin was. No more flaky patches! I didn’t change anything except starting the Kosmea RHO. I have also recommended this to three other people who have given me positive responses.

 

I definitely recommend this for RHO fans out there. If you’re skeptical, buy the 10ml and trial it for a few weeks. IMO it absorbs better and it’s more moisturising than the Trilogy one. I have read reviews and comparisons of both the Kosmea and Trilogy RHO.

 

Kosmea uses a different rosehip variant, rosa eglanteria (or rubiginosa) instead of rosa canina, which seems to be the common ingredient in all the other RHO brands. Kosmea also uses the fruit, skin and seed (instead of just the seed like other brands), which is perhaps why the oil is richer and darker in colour. I will follow up this post with an explanation on the difference between rosa canina and rosa rubiginosa.

 

Buying tip
Search online for a cheaper price or check individual retailers for specials (health shops, DJs, smaller chemists). The Kosmea website has a 20% sale probably twice to three times a year. Follow their social media for sale updates.

 

Ingredients
Organic rosa eglanteria (rosehip) oil.

 

kitteh