Tag Archives: skincare

Rosehip oil – a closer look

Following on from my rosehip oil (RHO) review post, here I have a short article based on scientific research on the comparison between rosa canina (RC) and rosa eglanteria/mosqueta/rubiginosa (RR).

170px-Illustration_Rosa_canina1

Rosa Canina

RR Wikimedia

Rosa Rubiginosa

 

Most RHO brands out there uses RC. Below I have listed most known brands using RC or RR. These brands include those who have pure RHO (100% RHO) and RHO+ (plus other oils and ingredients) products.

Brands using Rosa Canina
Essano
CROP
Natio
Trilogy
Swisse
Rosehip Plus
MooGoo
Natural Instinct
People for Plants
A’kin
Modelco
In Essence
Oil Garden Aromatherapy

Brands using Rosa Rubiginosa
She
Sukin
Kosmea
Kora Organics
Thursday Plantation

In terms of pricing, usually RC is cheaper than RR. It is also much more common.

The reason why I started this mini research was the difference I felt when using Kosmea, which uses RR instead of RC. Upon googling the term ‘RC vs RR’, I stumbled upon these useful blog posts:
http://pixiedw.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/some-bits-and-pieces-of-rosehip-oil.html
http://www.thingsilove.com.au/2010/08/review-organic-rosehip-oil.html

I then proceeded to look for scientific research articles to back this hypothesis. Here are some that I have found to be informative. I have tried to find open access articles so everyone is able to read them too.

Note – Flavonoids are basically antioxidants. Here’s a longer, more scientific explanation: “They act in plants as antioxidants, antimicrobials, photoreceptors, visual attractors, feeding repellants, and for light screening. Many studies have suggested that flavonoids exhibit biological activities, including antiallergenic, antiviral, antiinflammatory, and vasodilating actions. However, most interest has been devoted to the antioxidant activity of flavonoids, which is due to their ability to reduce free radical formation and to scavenge free radicals.” (Pietta, 2000)

To sum the articles up, here’s the difference between RC and RR:

From Adamczak, Buchwald, Zielinski and Mielcarek, 2012:

Upon comparing 75 samples representing 11 species –

RC
Mean Vit C content – 0.51 g/100 g DM (dry matter)
Mean Citric acid content – 3.4 g/100 g DM (my reading of the graph)
Mean Flavonoid content – 41 mg/100 g DM

RR
Mean Vit C content – 1.18 g/100 g DM (my reading of the graph)
Mean Citric acid content – 3.1 g/100 g DM(my reading of the graph)
Mean Flavonoid content – 72 mg/100 g DM

“…flavonoids were highest in R. rubiginosa (72 mg/100 g DM)”
“…average flavonoid content in R. canina hips (41 mg/100 g DM) was nearly half that of R. rubiginosa hips (72 mg/100 g DM).”
“The average amount of vitamin C in R. canina hips (0.51 g/100 g DM) was nearly a third that of R. dumalis hips (1.44 g/100 g DM).”
“Rosa villosa is the richest source of vitamin C, while R. canina usually shows low content of it (Krzaczek et al., 1970; Gao et al., 2000); our results support that.”

From Roman, Stanila and Stanila, 2013:

“Yoo et al. reported a higher content in flavonoids (400 mg QE/100 g fresh fruit) but in Rosa rubiginosa, data which is in concordance with Adamczak et al. who obtained the highest concentration in flavonoids for Rosa rubiginosa among other 11 species of Rosa L.”

Concluding thoughts

Based on my quick research, it seems that RR’s content is more beneficial when compared to RC. This is purely comparing the concentration of the components (flavonoids, citric acid and vitamin C). As a consumer – I’m now more aware of what is in my RHO and of the options available in the market. I’m definitely trying Thursday Plantation and Sukin next, to see if the quality of their RHO is comparable to Kosmea.

After reading more blog posts, reviews and various articles on RHO (sorry can’t remember all the individual sources), I have also learnt that you should always buy unrefined, non-heat treated/cold-pressed RHO. You can see the difference in the colour. Heat treated RHO will be paler in colour and does not smell as strong. Kosmea’s RHO is reddish and smells quite strong, when compared to other RHO brands.

 

References

Adamczak, A., Buchwald, W., Zielinski, J., & Mielcarek, S. (2012). Flavonoid and Organic Acid Content in Rose Hips (Rosa L., Sect. Caninae Dc. Em. Christ.). Acta Biologica Cracoviensia, 54(1), 105.

Pietta, P. G. (2000). Flavonoids as antioxidants. J Nat Prod, 63(7), 1035-1042.

Roman, I, Stanila, A., & Stanila, S. (2013). Bioactive compounds and antioxidant activity of Rosa canina L. biotypes from spontaneous flora of Transylvania. Chemistry Central Journal, 7, 73.

 

Rosehip Oil | Review

I am a self-confessed oil hipster. I used oil before it was mainstream. Someone put it on a t-shirt!

 

I started using oils and the oil cleansing method in 2005 (early enough, right?). The first brand I used was Kosmea. At the time, no other brands offering RHO was widely available. I oil cleansed with no-brand castor and sweet almond oil from the health shop. Compared to the plethora of choices that Australian consumers now have, back then the choices were minimal.

 

Somehow, I stopped using RHO and did not oil cleanse as regularly as I explored other products and brands. Looking back, using products from the Kosmea range and not chemically exfoliating was not beneficial for my oilier, younger skin; which is perhaps why I did not see any benefits. My bank account breathed a sigh of relief as Kosmea products weren’t exactly the cheapest on the market, even now!

 

Fast forward a couple of years and my skin is now more dehydrated. I started using RHO again due to the increased exposure and availability of newer brands. Literally almost every single naturalist brand out there has a RHO. Swisse, Sukin, A’Kin, Trilogy… There are even brands which are built on RHO – Essano and Rosehip Plus. So in this post, I will go through three brands that I have tried so far: Trilogy, Swisse and Kosmea.

 

Trilogy

 

 trilogy

 

Rating: 3/5

 

Arguably the most well known and widely available RHO brand in the Australian market right now. I have used more than 5 bottles in the last 2-3 years with no profound effects on my skin. It moisturises decently, absorbs decently and is non-offensive. Scent is OK – then again I’m not fussy with product scents. The oil is gold-coloured and texture is light.

 

I guess it just became a staple of my skincare routine that I didn’t really question its effectiveness anymore. I still have frequent dry patches on my face. It’s also frequently discounted, which is a great incentive to buy.

 

I didn’t see or feel any major differences between the antioxidant and normal versions. The antioxidant version contains Rosapene™. I did use the Rosapene night cream and found the cream to have a good plumping and moisturising effect on my skin.

 

I would probably use this for mixing with body creams in the future, but then again I can buy from cheaper brands for that purpose. Honestly, going back to Kosmea has made Trilogy’s RHO redundant. I have 1.5 bottles of this left and I’ve been using it on my neck, chest and back of hands. I actually WANT to like Trilogy more than Kosmea, due to the more affordable price and wider availability.

 

Buying tip
Wait for Priceline or Chemist Warehouse sale

 

Ingredients
Normal version
Rosa Canina (rosehip) seed oil

 

Antioxidant version
Rosa Canina (rosehip) seed oil, Solanum lycopersicum (tomato) seed oil (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil (and) helianthus annuus seed oil (and) tocopherol, Lycopene, Euterpe Oleracea fruit oil (and) Tocopherol, Avena sativa kernel extract (all of these ingredients are trademarked as Rosapene by Trilogy).

 

Swisse

 

Rosehip

 

Rating: 2/5

 

Bought this as it was on sale (those sales always get me). I tried using it on my face and it was just too heavy and oily. It just sat on top of my skin. The texture and smell are different from other RHOs that I’ve tested. It’s light golden in colour and thicker than other RHOs in the market. The scent is nice and citrusy, not the typical RHO smell.

 

After a few uses, I relegated this to neck/chest/back of hands duty and have not repurchased. I wonder if the addition of other oils contributes to the different texture and feel of this oil? Maybe OK for body oil but as I said above, there are other cheaper RHOs or body oils for that purpose.

 

Buying tip
Wait for Coles/Woolies half price sale or Priceline or Chemist Warehouse sale.

 

Ingredients
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (94.25%)
Certified Organic Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (5%)
Tocopherol (Vitamin E derived from Soy and Sunflower)
Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil
Litsea Cubeba Fruit (May Chang) Oil
Cymbopogon Martini (Palma Rosa) Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower (Rose Geranium) Oil.

 

Kosmea

 

Kosmea-Certified-Organic-Rose-Hip-Oil

 

Rating: 5/5

 

I bought this a few months ago on a whim and have not looked back since. I remembered the bright orange colour and heavier texture of the oil and the unique aroma which made this product different from the rest of the RHOs in the market.

 

What a great decision! One week later, after using it religiously after my toner every night, I realised how smooth and moisturised my skin was. No more flaky patches! I didn’t change anything except starting the Kosmea RHO. I have also recommended this to three other people who have given me positive responses.

 

I definitely recommend this for RHO fans out there. If you’re skeptical, buy the 10ml and trial it for a few weeks. IMO it absorbs better and it’s more moisturising than the Trilogy one. I have read reviews and comparisons of both the Kosmea and Trilogy RHO.

 

Kosmea uses a different rosehip variant, rosa eglanteria (or rubiginosa) instead of rosa canina, which seems to be the common ingredient in all the other RHO brands. Kosmea also uses the fruit, skin and seed (instead of just the seed like other brands), which is perhaps why the oil is richer and darker in colour. I will follow up this post with an explanation on the difference between rosa canina and rosa rubiginosa.

 

Buying tip
Search online for a cheaper price or check individual retailers for specials (health shops, DJs, smaller chemists). The Kosmea website has a 20% sale probably twice to three times a year. Follow their social media for sale updates.

 

Ingredients
Organic rosa eglanteria (rosehip) oil.

 

kitteh

Brand Review: Sukin and Trilogy

So, after promising to come back with new reviews, of course I disappeared! Typical.

I have been trying many new products these past few months, mainly due to Priceline’s dangerous 40% off sales.

In this post, I will give an overall review of two brands I have been using in the past two years: Sukin and Trilogy. I will then (hopefully) move on to reviewing individual products from these two ranges. I will mention winner and losers from both lines. If a product is not mentioned in either category then it was an average performer.

Both of these lines are widely available in pharmacies and Priceline. If you would like to try them, I suggest waiting for the Priceline 40% off sale or watching out for specials at Chemist Warehouse/MyChemist. The Priceline sale has just finished around three weeks ago, so I predict they won’t have one for several months. They used to have it yearly (correct me if I’m wrong) in June/July, but it seems like they’re doing it more regularly now.

Disclaimer: All products were bought with my own hard-earned cash because I’m an obscure and unknown “beauty blogger” and no company would ever send me PR material.

 

Sukin

Products used
Sensitive cleansing gel
Foaming cleanser
Purely ageless replenishing night cream
Sensitive facial moisturiser
Facial moisturiser
Body oil
Revitalising facial scrub
Hand cream
Micellar cleansing water

Standouts
Sensitive cleansing gel

Losers
Micellar cleansing water

Sukin is at a lower price point than Trilogy, and they have a wider range of products. I feel that many of their products smell and feel the same. There is a distinct Sukin smell that is present in almost all of their products.

For me, I feel like at this stage of my skincare journey, I’m better off investing in skincare with active ingredients which have the backing of scientific research (whatever that means). There are many natural brands like Sukin that simply mix essential oils and plant extracts into basic moisturisers, cleansers, toners, etc… and that’s just not cutting it anymore when there are so many new and exciting (and expensive) scientific breakthroughs in the skincare world.

If you are on a limited budget and you want to try natural products, try Sukin. The products didn’t really change or benefit my skin, but they didn’t harm my skin either. The line is environmentally friendly and they don’t test on animals. They are also Australian owned and made. I just hope that you’re not bothered by the everpresent signature scent!

Standouts

SENSITIVE CLEANSING GEL 125ml $9.95

sukin cleansing gel

Photo credit: Sukin website

I really liked this cleansing gel. It’s refreshing and cleanses excess oil and grime from my face without being stripping. It also works well with my Clarisonic. If you’re a makeup wearer, I suggest cleansing with wipes or oil cleansing before using this, as it wouldn’t clean makeup that well. Affordable and good for mornings when you don’t want to overcleanse. Probably suitable for dry-skinned people out there.

Losers
MICELLAR CLEANSING WATER 250ml $9.95
The only gripe I have is with the micellar water. It stings my non-sensitive skin! I don’t usually have reactive skin and I’m usually ok with alcohol, but somehow this micellar water stings my skin. It doesn’t turn red or anything but it is still unpleasant. Unfortunately I bought two bottles of this at once…

 

Trilogy

Products used
Anti aging night cream
Anti aging serum
RHO antioxidant
RHO normal
Rose mist
Rosapene night cream

Products to be trialled
Extra gentle cleansing cream

Standouts
Rose mist

Losers

Trilogy’s products are of a high quality overall. The creams feel luxurious and are quite heavy, and are therefore more suitable for drier and mature skins. However, I didn’t have any breakouts or problems using the creams.

I feel the same way about Trilogy the way I feel about Sukin. It’s natural, environmentally friendly and doesn’t test on animals. However, there are so many new skincare brands and products that are more exciting out there. Trilogy is branching out to more scientific products, such as their new night cream. The version I used was the old one, so I haven’t tried the new version.

About Trilogy’s RHO – I know that it is IMMENSELY popular. Perhaps the most popular out there due to its wide availability and considerably affordable price point. This is demonstrated by the always-empty shelves whenever Priceline has the 40% sale. The sales assistant said that someone bought $1k worth of products which consisted mainly of Trilogy’s RHO.

However,just to be a skincare rebel (not really), I feel like Trilogy’s RHO doesn’t do much to my skin. I’ve gone through bottles of this stuff – both versions and my skin was still dehydrated and flaky the morning after. I have now gone back to using Kosmea’s RHO, which is more effective and is a future topic for another long, long blog post… promise!

Standouts

HYDRATING MIST TONER  100ml $26.95

trilogy toner

Photo credit: Trilogy Website

Smells like roses – not the coy, artificial rose stink but a natural, almost powdery scent. Hydrating and assists in the application of serums and oils before moisturiser. A sensory experience!
Conclusion

To be honest, I feel like both of these lines did not make a huge difference to my skin. As you can see, I have tried a considerable number of products from both lines. Trilogy’s products, perhaps due to the higher price point, feel more luxurious and heavy on my skin. Both brands are a good entry point into natural skincare.

Sukin – affordable, for normal or oily skin
Trilogy – more expensive, for mature, dry skin

 

kitteh

 

Current Skincare Regime – 2015

This skincare regime is working well for me. It’s nothing miraculous or revolutionary. I’m not at the stage where I have to worry too much about lines or spots, so I’m focusing on prevention and avoiding skin mess-ups (e.g. dermatitis and breakouts). Also trying to reduce the amount of chemicals on my skin. I know it’s shocking that I’m using a soap bar to wash my face! However it’s worked out well and it hasn’t dried my skin out.

AM

I’m pretty lazy in the morning. If my skin is particularly dry or peeling, I’ll use an extra moisturiser under the sunscreen. My skin also gets oily pretty quickly so I don’t pile on the products in the morning.

Cleanser – water or Simple Pure Soap
Moisturiser – Skin Aqua UV Mild Milk (buy from Ebay or SASA)
Extra moisturiser if needed – Rosehip Oil

PM

One thing that I also do religiously is using  my serum and night cream on the back of my hands, neck and decolletage, down to my chest and the front of my shoulders. If your serum is too dear, perhaps try buying a separate serum and night cream for your non-face areas.

Pre-cleanse – Oil cleanser (Japanese brand, sorry I peeled the label off!)
Cleanser – Simple Pure Soap or HadaLabo (finishing this one off) with Clarisonic Mia
Serum – Rosehip Oil
Night cream – Puretopia
Eye cream –  Antipodes
Lip balm – Nuxe Reve de Miel

Weekly

Physical scrub – Sukin face scrub
Chemical scrub – Abra Alpha Enzyme Peel

Related reviews of products

Mentholatum Skin Aqua UV Mild Milk
Clarisonic Mia

kitteh

Apostle Skin-Brightening & Tone-Correcting Serum | Review

Apostle skin brightening serum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Score: 2.5/5

Pros: natural ingredients.

Cons: expensive, doesn’t brighten dramatically, drying.

Price: $58.99 at Priceline and various websites.

Buy again: no.

This serum’s consistency is unique, as it is very watery and thin. After distributing it on my palms and applying it to my face, it instantly dries within 2-3 seconds. After application, it has a slightly tightening/drying effect, so I always follow up with Rosehip Oil and a moisturizer.

Apostle skin brightening serum

I didn’t notice any brightening effects after using this for 3-4 months in a consistent manner (I used 3-4 drops after cleansing every night). However, it is made from natural ingredients and did not break me out.

In conclusion, I would not buy this product again as it was more of a placebo product. For the price, I could probably find another natural product with better results. If you would like to try this product, I recommend waiting for a sale at Priceline, as I got it during the 40% off skincare sale around July.

However, I read other reviews on this product and some people have experienced good results. To be fair, I don’t have any focused hyper-pigmentation or spots so I was expecting a more overall brightening effect to my face. I also only used it at night while the recommendation is to use it both morning and night.

just kitteh

kitteh

Mentholatum Skin Aqua UV Mild Milk SPF25 PA++ | Review

mentholatum skin aqua

Pros: relatively cheap, non-sticky, decent SPF rating, broad spectrum.

Cons: hard to get.

Price: around $15 at Sasa, cheaper in Asian pharmacies.

Buy again: yes.

mentholatum skin aqua

This is my favorite sunscreen at the moment. It’s a decent moisturizer (I don’t need to use an extra moisturizer underneath this) but it’s not sticky. The texture is quite runny as you can see above. It dries quite quickly and leaves my skin feeling smooth.

For those under the Australian (or similarly harsh) sun, I think SPF25 is a good enough rating. Just don’t forget to re-apply every 3-4 hours or so. This sunscreen is not waterproof and is not suitable to be used in the water.

Image

Tamanu Oil | Review

Pros: natural, works well.

Cons: oily feel, may clog pores, price.

Price: the price of Tamanu oil varies wildly, but it’s generally quite affordable especially if you live in the US and you are able to buy it online. Average price in Australia (online) is quite steep at around $25-30 per 50 mls.

Buy again: yes. Maybe for winter.

The consistency of this oil is thick and quite gooey and the colour is a dark greenish yellow. The smell, which some people find off-putting, is actually quite nice – a sort of herby/floral natural scent. 

I used this after cleansing my face in the evenings by administering a few drops onto my palms and pressing gently on my face and neck. Although I only tried a very small bottle of this oil, I didn’t experience any adverse effects. It does seem to moisturize and smoothen my facial skin quite well which I felt the morning after.

I’ve tried Jojoba and Rosehip Oil before (and various oils for my body) and I have to say that I like Tamanu oil the best. It also has rave reviews on Makeupalley and various blogs if you are interested in trying this oil out.

Image